The Reading: Celebrating Kentucky Arts and Letters and Wendell Berry

It was a snowy day, not the best weather for a festival but from the first sign on Main Street in New Castle, I knew the Kentucky Arts and Letters festival would not be exactly what I expected. The Longshot Lobsta Food Truck, parked outside in the snowy street for lunch, seemed out of character for inland Kentucky.  (The lobster rolls reportedly were delicious.)  Being that everything is local as can be in Wendell Berry’s world, I kind of expected BBQ or beef from the Berry Center.  As Wendell’s famous quote goes, “Eating is an agricultural act.”

But never mind the snow and food offerings; the big draw for my friend Cynnie, me and others was Wendell Berry reading. 

In the small town of Newcastle (population c.900) at the Berry Center, the spirit of Wendell infuses the place like wine in a long-brewing beef stew.  While you can see the romantic intellectual side of Berry through all his 50 books collected in the log cabin bookstore down the street, you get the hard-working, practical side, at Our Homeplace Meat, a shop which sells meat and local produce from the Berry project that supports small farmers a block down from the bookstore.

True to Wendell’s aversion to the over commercialization of our world, no neon or big billboards blight the townscape. The town itself looks kind of depressed, if not for the Berry buildings freshly renovated and inviting us in. I counted five Berry buildings on Main Street, including the Berry Center in a fine 1820s home, the meat shop, the bookstore, the Heritage House and the Locker, a small auditorium-like space where the readings took place.

Berry read from his memoir of fellow writer and farm Ed McClanahan

The bookstore is cozy and well-supplied with the books of Berry and other Kentucky writers. Located in a double log cabin beautifully renovated,  the Agrarian Culture Center and Bookstore features all Berry’s work including the most recent two: The Need to be Whole; where he delves into the need to face the consequences of our exploitation of Native peoples, African Americans  and many others, and How it Went, more fictional stories based on his Kentucky farm life. He published these two books this year at age 88.  

 There are some lovely little hand-crafted books with beautiful paper imprinted with woodcut pictures, published by Larkspur Press, along with collections of poetry, essays and short stories. I had a hard time deciding what volume to buy and settled on This Day, recommended by Cynnie for meditation, a thick book full of short poems. He wrote the poems on Sunday, the Sabbath, when he takes his worship into the woods and fields of Henry County. I also bought The Unsettling of America. Culture and Agriculture, published in 1977. His words ring truer than ever:

“And surely there has never been a people more ominously and painfully divided than we are—both against each other and within ourselves.”

This quote at the end of chapter one in Unsettling sums it up for me “the care of the earth is our most ancient and most worthy and, after all, our most pleasing responsibility. To cherish what remains of it, and to foster its renewal, is our only legitimate hope.”

For the festival reading, I was expecting some observations on nature or the continued divide, with political animosities still raging. Berry does not endorse one political candidate over another, even though his learnings are decidedly progressive, pro-environment and pro-small farm. His reading was nonpolitical, hilarious and refreshing—memories of his friend and former Merry Prankster-the late Ed McClanahan, author of the memoir,Famous People I have Known.  I didn’t realize that Berry, as well as Mcclanahan were friends with counter-culture icon Ken Kesey as well as writers Larry McMurty, Robert Stone and Ernest Gaines — all together in the Creative Writing seminars at Stanford University in 1958.

As related in his talk, Berry got some grief from members of his literary circle, based in New York and Palo Alto, for retreating back to his home-farm in Kentucky after he received fellowships at Stanford, an agent and a job teaching writing in New York.

To try to explain his decision to his skeptical friends, he detailed milking a cow and the wonders of that to which McClanahan countered that he got the same pleasure from cocktail hour. (This doesn’t sound half as funny as when Berry told it in his soft, deadpan drawl.)

After Stanford, McClanahan and Berry continued a close relationship, farming, writing and talking together. As Berry remarked when McClanahan died in November of last year:”Ed and I started talking in the spring of 1957 and we haven’t stopped til now.”

Kentucky writers

Berry was clearly the most anticipated, applauded writer of the group, but the others, mostly steeped in the rural culture and oral tradition of storytelling like Berry, were a joy to listen to. All low-key, each writer simply approached the microphone on a tiny stage and read from his or her work.  Cynnie and I just sat and listened and were entertained.  Bobbie Ann Mason, whose short stories I love, read excerpts from Feathers about a country woman over-pregnant which had us laughing out loud.

Eric Reece, whose Lost Mountain won the Sierra Club award for environmental writing, was intense as he read “Gethsemane,” inspired by his relationship with Thomas Merton, once a Kentucky resident. Morris Manning’s Railsplitter is written in the voice of Abe Lincoln; he entertained with music played on a dulcimer made of a cigar box and stick.

Bobbie Ann Mason reads from her novel Feathers

All had some relationship to Wendell, through writing, farming and Kentucky, of course.

It all comes back to Wendell, as one writer commented.  Or, as Berry has written, “It all turns on affection.”

Ed McClanahan, the late writer, was a legend in the sixties counterculture. Says Berry, “He had a very large sense of humor and it came to rest on his language.”

On the road to New Castle, Kentucky: Berry Center has a model plan for saving small farms

When my friend Cynnie Keller Davis offered me a ticket to the Kentucky Arts and Writers Festival, I jumped at the opportunity, At 88, Wendell Berry was going to read, and he had just completed two new books: The Need to Be Whole and How It Went.  http://www.berrycenterbookstore.orgWe hit the road to New Castle, Kentucky, for the weekend.

As an antidote to the terrible divisions in America, I keep reading more about his life, his environmental activism and his railing against unjust causes from the Vietnam War to strip mining, all the while living a good life, rooted in the land and family. His searing analysis of the perils of agribusiness in The Unsettling of America in 1977 rings true today. Berry is a champion of sustainable farming and poet of the farming life. “The soul of the local food movement,” food writer Mark Bittman calls him.

Cynnie is a Berry fan as well, drawing inspiration from Berry’s beautiful Sabbath poems, published in a thick volume, called This Day, among other works. As owner of Bellair Farm in Charlottesville (profiled last month), she is exploring ways to keep the farm in the black. So before seeing Wendell on Saturday at the festival, she arranged an interview Friday with Mary Berry, Wendell’s daughter and executive director of the Berry Center, to find out about a promising program they have developed to help local farmers develop sustainable crops that can yield stable incomes.

We drove out on a drizzly Friday afternoon from Louisville, a clean, prosperous city made wealthy from bourbon, horses and other industries. We followed the highway for 38 miles along the Kentucky River out to the farmlands that are home to Berry’s family and literary legacy. The well-clipped fields are hilly and green, dotted with cattle and simple, often faded, red and blue tobacco barns that reminded me of my home-county Halifax, Virginia.

The Berry Center occupies a prime location in New Castle. Further down the street is Our Homeplace Meat, and on the other side is the bookstore, full of all of Berry’s works and keepsake editions.

Arriving on Main Street in the town of New Castle, (population c.900), we could see the influence of the Berrys, in the bookstore housed in a renovated double log cabin, in the My Homeplace Meat shop and at the Berry Center, located in the gracious historic house, where we met Mary Berry,

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“We don’t have an agricultural problem. We have a culture problem,” begins Mary who often invokes her father in her soft but commanding southern accent.  “We have to have a culture that supports small to midsize farmers and good land use.” We sat around a long oval wood table in the conference room, surrounded by wonderful photographs of Wendell on the farm when he was working with draft horses and writing his iconic nature poems,

Photos by the late James Hall, given to the Berry Center by his wife poet Mary Ann Taylor-Hall

Steeped in the heritage of her father and grandfather, Mary grew up on the farm (at times without running water or electricity) with parents Wendell and Tanya. Her grandfather, a lawyer who worked in Washington, D.C, developed the tobacco price support program, which she has researched at the center’s own archives. As an adult, she farmed burley tobacco. She and her husband at one point ran a successful CSA–all in the family tradition that goes back at least five generations in Henry County.

Their love and care for the land informs so much of what they do.

Tobacco Price-Support is a model

Surprising to me, the basis for their innovative idea is the federal Tobacco Price-Support program, developed in the 1930s, along with other commodity support programs. Using a tobacco coop to buy up excess tobacco, the program did not cost the government anything (see How the Tobacco Support System works for details, below.)

The central idea of the Tobacco Price-Support program was to stabilize prices for farmers through quotas limiting what each farmer could sell and guaranteeing minimum prices. “We are using the idea that you can control production and have a parity price. We can’t replicate the program my grandfather developed but what we can do is use its principles to give farmers decent pay and take them out of a boom and bust economy.”

This explanation of the Tobacco Price Support program is displayed at the Berry Center which promotes key elements of the program as a model to provide small farmers with a decent wage and stability.

 For many good reasons, tobacco is not popular these days, even though I recall when it was king in Halifax County and many people including my uncles and grandfather, thrived in the business. Now the area is depressed, in need of a new staple of new infusion of income, or a different crop. Burley tobacco, used in cigarettes, reigned here in Kentucky as the top crop before the federal government eliminated the crucial support in 2004. In the transition from tobacco, Kentucky, which had once raised the most burley tobacco in the U.S., lost 10,000 farms. “We are going to have to do it without the government,” added Mary, who critiques policy from Washington which supports industrial agriculture to the detriment of small farms.

Mary said the local food movement has failed to reverse the decline.

Beginning in 2017, Mary gathered 12 small farmers from the area; some were picked by Wendell from his long-time associations as a fellow farmer, to work on ways to build up sustainable small farms with good practices.

All but one of the participants had farmed tobacco in the past and were searching for a way to find more sustainable ways to farm after tobacco.

Our Homeplace Meat: A local shop for local meat

To address the need for agricultural support, the Berry Center has developed four programs: the Agrarian Culture Center and Bookstore; The Archives where the historic documents about tobacco are stored; the Wendell Berry Farming program; and Our Homeplace Meat, all supported by a nonprofit 501-C funded by grants and donations. For Our Homeplace Meat, the Berry Center provides farmers with contracts that guarantee a higher price per pound than the standard market. “We started by figuring out the parity price per pound for cattle farmers,” explained Mary.

Each farmer raises more cattle than required in the contract. The emphasis is on pasture-raised quality—no GMOs, antibiotics, or steroids. What doesn’t make the grade at Homeplace Meat goes into the regular meat program and ends up in supermarkets. They send the grass-fed, finished cows for processing at Trackside Butcher Shoppe, a flourishing business located a few miles down the road.

Farmers don’t have to do processing or marketing.  Creation Gardens, a food distribution company, has worked out a deal with Our Homeplace Meat to sell the beef to regional markets, including high-end restaurants eager for “local” produce, in Louisville, Cincinnati and elsewhere. Online sales feature cleverly designed packs.

We stopped by Our Homeplace Meat Shop, in a cozy wood frame house which has been converted to a store where you can buy fresh and frozen cuts from one quarter of a cow to one pound of burger meat. One customer was buying the popular Rose Veal, milk fed and grass fed, according to humanitarian standards. “Very tender and better than any other veal, he said. Prices are reasonable because the cost of transportation and advertising and even packaging are eliminated. “And the very cool thing is the farmers are all local,” says Sandy Canon, ringing up sales at the shop.

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The model for Our Home Place Meat could be used for anything farmers produce, Mary maintains. It’s working now for the Henry County farmers making $400-450 more per head of cattle, she says.  Production is up 200 percent.

She admits for now the model depends on support from nonprofits. Eventually, though, with more parts falling into place, it could become a self-sufficient coop.

Amidst the dismal reports on the demise of the American farm, it is refreshing to see the positive programs coming from the Berry Center. They are adding to the farmer population, too, through the Wendell Berry Farming Program, which provides 12 students tuition-free education offering a BA degree  in sustainable farming practices, in collaboration with Sterling College in Vermont.

While we didn’t see Berry that day, his presence is felt everywhere, whether in quotes on Berry Beef packages or on literature promoting the Berry Center programs. “What is important to me about the Berry Center and what I am learning from it, is its willingness to go to work at home on a small scale, to improve the economy of local farmers and, therefore, the health of the local land. This is radical now when public attention is all on global solutions to global problems. But what works here is likely to work elsewhere, whereas a global solution that won’t work locally is a waste of time,” says Berry. We would hear him and other Kentucky writers in person tomorrow (Saturday).

After the meeting with Mary, we drove out to the Berry Center farm, where the students work, located on 50 wooded acres in the Port Royal area where Berry has spent his most of his life. It’s quiet, sheep are gathered in a field just beyond a simple brick house. The sunset broke the sky up in bright pink, and everything seemed peaceful, in its right place, in this age-old rural landscape. This is local.

Dinner in a stall

We drove back to Louisville in blackness and turned off for dinner at Bar8 restaurant at Heritage farm in Goshen, 20 miles northeast of Louisville. It’s a beautiful horse farm, home to past Kentucky Derby winners and many other “local” attractions, as glitzy as Berry Center is noncommercial.   It has converted the stable into a fancy farm to table restaurant that features food from its gardens and two pages of bourbon selections at its bar.

Dining in the horse stalls at Barn8, in Goshen, Kentucky with Cynnie in back

The place was hopping. Diners were paying high prices for the farm ambience and local food.  We ate delicious trout and crispy Brussel sprouts between the stalls.

No question, there is a market for local, for what is good, authentic, and delicious. Whatever form it takes, we just have to make sure the farmers get their share.

Next up: Berry at the Writers’ Festival