A visit to charming La Torre Tolfe in Tuscany

Mania with her dog Daisy at the end of her workday

Atop the Tuscany hills, Mania Castelli has a host of enterprises  to tend to:  hotel, winery, olive oil production, tastings and sales, and a restaurant-plus barnyard animals near and dear to her veterinarian heart.

When I first met her early in the morning her during my stay at La Torre Tolfe, she was jogging and at the end of the long day working on farm projects, she was out to tend to a sick sheep. She’s involved in every aspect of this beautiful Tuscany estate located just 3 kilometers from Siena.

The hotel includes a restaurant offering organic fresh vegetables and grains along with olive oil and wine

Today using regenerative methods to replenish the soil, she and her husband Mark have built up a solid business in agritourism,  boosting crops for excellent wine, olive oil and a wonderful restaurant using the fruits of their labor.

It started eight years ago when Mania, a practicing veterinarian, and her husband Mark, a marine biologist, moved from  England to take over the family business. Her grandfather Luigi Castelli had made a fortune in the steel operations. He and his wife Lunella bought the place in 1953 as a holiday getaway.  There was an ancient wine operation, dating back to the 1316, along with an olive grove and vineyard.  Mania remembers the beauty of the landscape and the great times coming here as a child and making home movies of children’s stories with family members. 

Portrait of Lunella Castelli, Mania’s grandmother, who guided renovation on the house. They restored the 8th century watchtower and added spacious bathrooms

When Mark and Mania  surveyed the farm for its possibilities for relocation, they were disturbed by the damages of erosion, not the beautiful landscape that defines the property today.  ”We didn’t find it very beautiful,” recalls Mania, who co-owns it today with her brother.

At the beginning, resolving to make the farm work, Mania threw herself into turning the 17-bedroom house into a hotel.  The house had been housing workers in the sharecropping system predominant in Italy then. She asked the workers on the original staff to stay on to work in the restaurant and hotel. “ I told them, ‘Let’s share this with other people.’” She herself took on duties as a waitress and concierge, learning on the job. “It was very much, ‘Let’s try this.’”

They hired Giacomo Mastretta, an excellent winemaker who valued their approach to making organic wine.

They found a chef who valued their organic approach to develop some new takes on traditional
Tuscan dishes. In this multi-pronged effort, every piece, from the wine-making to the restaurant, all worked together.

Wine dating from the 1970s is still in the cellar–musty but drinkable. On a tour we went through Etruscan tunnels that go back thousands of years. The tower was built to guard Siena from invasion.

“Then the restaurant became very important,” she continues.  “It’s a place to showcase the wine.  Wine is  a very sexy product and can bring people in.”

For Mania and Mark, the turnaround to organic farm producing olives and grapes and tourist haven has come with a lot of sweat and toil and experimentation. Using regenerative methods is a key part of their philosophy.

As to what precisely that means, Mania gives a long answer.  “It has to translate into something financially viable and that is carbon.  It means a whole bundle of practices added together that reduce the cost and damage done to the earth by farming.

Healthy organic grapes for wine

Given the current drought in Italy, Mania expresses urgency about the need to adopt more regenerative methods of farming due to the specter of climate change, which is wreaking havoc on Italian farms with increasing heat and lessening precipitation. They work with other farmers in a group, backed by the government of Italy,  to  encourage the adoption of more regenerative farming methods. Taking a scientific approach, they are measuring everything from output to number of insects.

Last year there was rain every afternoon for three months.  That has led to a loss of 30 percent every four years, according to Mark.   

Now there is the drought which has hit southern Italy worst. This year, 2024, is the worst year for rainfall in more than 20 years.   In Sicily and Puglia, drought threatens tourism. Each tourist uses 4 times the amount of the average resident.

On the day I met her,  Mania was strategizing with her colleague, Austrian native Sascha Osterle, to develop more regenerative methods that would increase biodiversity on the farm.  Among their ideas: grow sunflowers and use the oil to fuel the farm machinery: reduce the use of copper, commonly used to treat grapes during drought; turn arable land presently filled with wildflowers into pasture for grazing animals that would provide fertilizer for the soil.

Soon Mania will split the property with her brother, who shares her convictions about regenerative farming and the need to diversify.

Already they have adopted some changes in their effort to be more environmentally conscious.  Mania points to a new method for pruning olive trees, changed from clipping branches all over the tree to leaving just one branch in the middle of the tree in order to conserve and direct growth.

Olive trees are pruned so one main branch is directing growth

She is as excited about promoting the olive oil from La Torre Alle Tolfe as much as about the wine.  She conducts olive oil tastings similar to wine tastings. From a tray of 20 different bottles of olive oil, Mania selects one to try.  She smells it, observes the bottle, then takes a sip.  They grow five varieties of olives—out of 200 in Italy– on the farm. Each one tastes different.  To inform consumers, they have created a booklet on frequently asked questions about olive oil.

Smell and taste olive oil for quality

The approach to the 13-hectare vineyard is similar: minimal intervention and no water to grow the grapes and allow their true identity to come through. “We wyere interested in bringing in more sustainability. We started to use less sulfites. The wine is more alive!”

Located in the Chianti Colli Senesi district, their certified Chianti is made according to the strict rules governing Chianti, composed of 80 percent Sangiovese grapes, aged in concrete lined with glass.  Besides two Chianti, they make a refreshing Rose and two others using different combinations of grapes.

Jackie and Emma Tasting Ros/e at the wine shop. They gave it good reviews.

The delicious wine is not too expensive; chianti costs 15.5 euros  at the shop; the more full complex Chianti Reserve goes for 25 euros.  The Chianti Coli Sense was praised as “rich and fruity, all held together with dusty tannins,” in a great review from the NY Times.

At the wine-tasting earlier in the shop, the rose was so refreshing but I really liked the full-bodied Chianti. I had never really had decent chianti until this glass– dark red, tasting slightly of the earth and sandy soil, which is rich in fossilsThis was earthy and smooth and All-natural. Cheers!

Chianti which must be grown in the Chianti region

Lavender: calming at Star Bright Farm

Farmer Peter Elmore in lavender fields, Star Bright Farm, White Hall, Maryland

On picturesque property in north Baltimore County, farmer/entrepreneur Peter Elmore has found his calling–in lavender. At Star Bright Farm, Elmore grows, distills, packages, and sells this crop with almost as many variations as a tomato. Here you can drink it (in lemonade), spray it (in hyrdrosols), eat it (in cookies and cakes), put it in potpourri or bouquets, walk through lavender rows and destress, and best of all, snip and smell its astringent, sweet perfume.

With a degree in ecological agriculture and certification in permaculture from University of Vermont, the 31-year-old farmer is using the best regenerative techniques on the land to grow this stunning plant.   (To really get a sense of the farm, see the video with audio by Peter’s brother Patrick by clicking here. Scroll down and click on the arrow. )

Blueberries and Lavender

When his parents bought the 130-acre farm across from his uncle and aunt’s farm in White Hall, they came up with a complementary plan. His mother, Photographer Helen Norman, was entranced with the lavender fields in France.  Peter wanted to grow blueberries.  So the blueberries and purple lavender have merged in a riot of aromas and taste. And they have added some 23 varieties of flowers and herbs—all organic. It’s distinctive because everything is done on site, from seed to packaging lavender skin and health products.

Elmore is the epitome of a new breed of farmer–young, creative, super-conscientious about the environment and food and how his farming can positively affect climate change.

Bees are loving this crop

He describes himself as a small farmer who will be able to take a greater share in profits than small farmers of the past, as consumers, concerned about health and taste, demand more quality and no pesticides—and they are willing to pay the price.  “We don’t need huge access to land and capital. Large scale farming is designed around planting and spraying. I’d rather focus on diversity of what we are growing and find the technology to go with it.”

(Read more on this website about regenerative farming by clicking here .)

Most everything is done by hand. That’s a lot when you consider each row of lavender requires about 12 hours of pruning and cutting for 26 rows.  Elmore spends more time per plant, which produces more value, and in the long run, will be more profitable, he says. After a while, he says, you get the knack of snipping. He hires some harvesters in season.

The red barn offers space for music, picnics and crafts

As the mission statement for Bright Star says, our goal is to “foster a durable ecosystem that generates human wellbeing and regenerates environmental health.”

On a recent busy day, Elmore strode to the barn, under a magnificent roof redone by Amish builders to show off the copper still, used to distill lavender and other herbs for the products Bright Star is selling online and in the Barn Shop downstairs. A model of the modern enterprising farmer, he’s energetic, in red crocs and a North Face cap—and a serious practitioner of regenerative agriculture.(Read more about regenerative farming here.)  ”The idea is to plant flowers and perennials around and establish perennial cropping—landscape diversity,” Elmore says.

Elmore distils bunches of lavender, roses or blends of other herbs to make hydrosols, in this vessel

The herbs have become the jumping off point for a business in herbal skin care and healing sprays and ointments. Elmore and an assistant distill bunches of dried herbs in a 20-liter copper still that looks like a big cappuccino machine.

The herbs, roses or a blend are in effect distilled in water in clear glass with spray tops.  They make hydrosols which contain the essence of chamomile, lemon balm, thyme, peppermint and of course, lavender –all organic to the end.

Learning from One Straw

Elmore learned to admire the taste and healthy aspects of organic vegetables from his uncle and aunt, Joan and Drew Norman, the owners of One Straw Farm, (featured here in an earlier post on Farm-Finds) which adjoins Star Bright. The Normans got into organic farming when most people associated it with hippies growing marijuna. Today chefs and savvy consumers look to One Straw for the most desirable fresh vegetables in restaurants, CSAs and local farmers’ markets.

“A bunch of us kids would ride in the back of the truck. Then I started doing more work around the farm. I learned to drive tractors,” recalls Elmore. The experience fed his passion for organic food and to the study of food systems, permaculture and ecology. After college, he moved to Oregon and worked for a local food aggregator, which acted as a liaison to set up farmers to sell their produce to restaurants and markets.

It takes a lot more work to maintain the organic approach than in an non-organic farm. For now, Elmore is the primary worker, along with one full time helper. To gain the organic certification , he must plow through a lot of red tape and prove first that no chemicals have been used on the property for the last three years. For the products he sells, he fills out a daily sheet documenting the process of production and verifying that no pesticides have been added.

To avoid pesticides, he plants dense cover crops, such as white clover, that will enrich the soil. He covers the roots of all the plants with plastic to keep out weeds.  And he uses on-farm composting as well as organic fertilizers.

Keeping down the weeds with plastic

High end marketing

Star Bright offers an array of products–all organic, made by hand– in a store in the basement of the barn. On the website, the featured hydrosols and lavendar products look like a spread in a home and garden magazine. No surprise because Helen Norman is a lifestyle and garden photographer with credits in national magazines, and her husband Mark has a background in marketing. They sell fine tools, such as the $90 Japanese pruners, arranged artfully on a rustic farm table, French country baskets, a $22 leather fly swatter, as wells as creams and organic “buzz-off” bug spray. The high-end marketing buoys the difficult farm days when drought or bugs can affect the harvest.

Most sales are online or in farmers’markets.

In the future, Elmore would like to add more fruit trees and more acres  to develop a self-sufficient, diverse farmstead.  “I’d like to supply people with fruit, my uncle’s farm grows vegetables; we have skincare, herbal medicine, and we can get into produce,” he says.

The lavender continues to be a big draw: for brides and models who want their pictures taken in the scenic setting, for people seeking solace, for crafters making lavender wreaths and a plethora of events from country rock performances to an open house for dogs.

Lavender for dogs

Lavender allegedly has a calming influence.  I had a chance recently to test its effects on my super-active dog Jojo, an Australian cattle dog with energy to burn. I asked my friend Connie with her rescue dog, Kona, who had been a good companion when we walked in the park, to come with me to Star Bright Farm for a benefit for BARCs, Baltimore’s largest pet adoption agency.

Star Bright opened up its lavender fields to the dogs for the event. 

Driving out the 36 miles from Baltimore through the beautiful north Baltimore County countryside, the dogs were not getting along.  Jojo, safely contained in her crate, was snarling and barking at Kona, who was curled up under the back seat with anxiety.

Maybe the dogs were relieved by simply getting out of the car, but by the time we led them out to roam (on the leash) down the curved rows filled with thick cushions of lavender, they were in dog heaven.

Connie (left) and me (right) with happy dogs Kona and Jojo in foreground.

Jojo and Kona were nearly drunk on the smell and the fields were alive with the happy sniffs and arfs of over twenty assorted dogs. Kona just lay down and chilled.

Kona relaxing in lavender